New book underscores Brian Polcyn's impact on dining
"In the grand scheme of things, not many chefs can legitimately claim to have made a tangible impact on dining in America. But Brian Polcyn, a chef and teacher in our own backyard, can.Not that he does. Or would. But he could.
It's an accomplishment largely unrecognized here, where restaurant goers and serious cooks have known his name and patronized his restaurants -- from Pike Street to Five Lakes Grill to Forest Grill -- for more than two decades.
But as he and co-author Michael Ruhlman mark the release this month of "Salumi: The Art of Italian Dry Curing," their second book on cured meats, it's an appropriate time to step back for a broader view of Polcyn and what he has contributed to cooking in America.
As much as anyone in this country, he has helped ignite a renaissance in the artisanal crafts of French charcuterie and Italian salumi -- the traditional, Old World methods of preserving meats to make everything from prosciutto and salami to country patés and smoky bacon."
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